First/shakedown cruise
Tides still not optimal (now 3 in the morning, 3 in the afternoon), the next
weekend it was finally time at last to get out for the first sail. Saturday
was chosen..
Glorious is the only word for it - I'd forgotten everything of course, so it was hardly what you would call a text book effort, but I got away from the mooring, sailed, and got back to the mooring - so good result..
The roller furler operation just puts a smile on your face, a clean bottom, and a tide underneath, and a broad reach, had us clocking upper 5's and lower 6's across the ground. The depth gauge is fantastic for extending the tacks so that better overall progress was made - I'm now not so tied to channel markers/withy's and can tack later, when I have to.
On the downside the tiller pilot wasn't working - the dreaded code "1000"
which my reading would indicate is a boot sequence code, and generally means
the device is not getting enough power.. 😐
Autopilot power problem determination
Sunday then saw me with a bag full of 12v bits and pieces and a volt meter,
hopefully to get to the bottom of the problems... the sun shone all
afternoon, and to be honest I quite enjoyed it..
- Before I left, I tested the autopilot on the car's battery (which I knew was good) and it worked OK, so the pilot was not at fault
- When I arrived, I plugged it into the 12v socket that worked OK all last year, and same problem.
- So I connected it direct to the boat battery and it worked OK - which lead me to start removing parts of the connection between battery and 12v socket. The end to end is in several parts.. connectivity is
-
battery - negative directly attached, positive to the master 12v switch,
to
- wire (over spec for use), to
-
switch in the locker (so I can turn it off without having to switch off
the whole boat's power), to
- in line fuse, to
- dri plug socket
-
First I removed the switch - it was stiff, and is supposed to move 360',
but was only moving 90' - removed it and connected the positive direct to
the inline fuse - tested, still not working
- Next I removed the fuse - tested, still not working... pffft...
-
Next I removed and checked the connectivity on the socket - stripped the
wire ends and reconnected - tested, still not working - bugger'ation...
- Next I stripped out all the wire, and replaced it with new - this time wired directly into the switch box (neater, and means I don't need the separate switch and in line fuse) - connected everything up - tested, still not working - bugger'ation!
- Well and truly confused now, so connected it direct to the battery again, and this time that also failed... 💩💩💩
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